Blown-In Insulation
BENEFITS
Energy Savings
Almost 67% of all heat loss occurs in the ceiling and walls of a building. Properly insulating these areas of the building can dramatically reduce energy bills.
Fire Protection
Besides saving you money, blown-in insulation also provides extremely effective fire protection capabilities.
Ice Dam Reduction/Elimination
Significantly reduce the chances of costly repairs.
Sound Control
Blown-in insulation provides very effective sound control to minimize outside noises, such as heavy rain.
Tax Credits
The laws are constantly changing in regards to Tax Credits for energy efficient homes. Check with your accountant or www.irs.gov to make sure you are capitalizing on the latest tax code opportunities.
| How much can you save? | |||
| If Annual AC costs are | 30% Wasted by Attic Access | Potential Savings to you | |
| 1 year | 5 years | ||
| $2,500 | $833 | $833 | $4,156 |
| $3000 | $1000 | $1000 | $5000 |
| $4000 | $1333 | $1333 | $6665 |
| $5000 | $1666 | $1666 | $8330 |
RECOMMENDED LEVELS OF INSULATION
Insulation level are specified by R-Value. R-Value is a measure of insulation’s ability to resist heat traveling through it. The higher the R-Value the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The table below shows what levels of insulation are cost-effective for different climates and locations in the home.
Recommended insulation levels for retrofitting existing wood-framed buildings

ATTIC RULER

COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Do I have enough?
No matter what kind of insulation you currently have in your attic, one quick way to determine if you need more is to look across the span of your attic. If your insulation is just level with or below your floor joists (i.e., you can easily see your joists), you should add more. If you cannot see any of the floor joists because the insulation is well above them, you probably have enough and adding more may not be cost-effective. It is important that the insulation be evenly distributed with no low spots; sometimes there is enough insulation in the middle of the attic and very little along the eaves. If your attic insulation covers your joists and is distributed evenly, you probably have enough.
How Much Should I Add?
Insulation levels are specified by R-Value. R-Value is a measure of insulation’s ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-49 or about 16.5-17 inches, depending on insulation type.
Won’t that much insulation block my eave vents?
It can if not properly dealt with. Eave venting is critical to your homes well being. Lack of eave vent- ing can cause ice dams, roof deterioration, insulation degradation, roof deck rot, and mold growth. That is why a professional in home estimate/evaluation is recommended.
How do I know if my home needs insulation?
You can benefit from re-insulating your existing home if you experience any of the following: ice dams, drafty walls, high heating/cooling bills, moisture in your attic, or if your furnace or A/C unit runs constantly.
Do I have to add the same type of Insulation that I currently have?
When adding additional insulation, you do not have to use the same type of insulation that currently exists in your attic. You can add loose fill on top of fiberglass batts or blankets, and vice-versa. If you use fiberglass over loose fill, make sure the fiberglass batt has no paper or foil backing; it needs to be “unfaced.” If you choose to add loose fill, it may be wise to hire a professional, as the application requires the use of a blowing machine, although some home improvement stores offer rentals of this machine.
Do I need to remove the existing insulation in my attic/sidewalls before my home can be re-insulated?
No. Even if you have moisture in your attic, once all bypasses are sealed (and/or your roof repaired by a qualified contractor, if necessary) insulation is blown directly over the existing insulation. The existing insulation will dry once the cause of the moisture is stopped. Adding new insulation on top of existing fiberglass insulation is called “capping”.
What is an ice dam?
An ice dam is created under winter conditions when heated air leaks through attic bypasses into an unheated attic. This creates warm areas on the roof and melts the underside of the snow that has accumulated on your roof. The melted snow flows down the roof until it reaches a cold spot, such as the eaves, where it refreezes, forming a dam.
What is the best long-term solution to ice dams?
First and foremost, attic bypasses must be sealed. Then extra insulation is blown into your attic, and ventilation added if necessary.
What is an attic bypass?
Bypasses are hidden air passageways that lead from the heated space into the attic. Because warm air rises, it continuously moves up the bypasses and escapes into the attic. Common attic bypasses are located around chimneys, ceiling light fixtures, heating ducts, kitchen and bath exhaust fans, plumbing, electrical wires, dropped ceilings and soffits. Please see Bypass Sealing.
What is R-value?
A materials resistance to heat flow is called its Resistance-value or better known as R-value. Having high R-value insulation installed in the cavities of your home slows the flow of heat through walls, floors and ceilings. The higher the R-value, the more effective the insulation. Dense packed cellulose has an R-value of 3.8 per inch.


